For 35mm slides, digital, and duplicating films - Fujichrome Sensia 100 & Kodak Ektachrome Sp 663 & 100ES.

For 4x5 transparency - Kodak E100S Ektachrome Professional. My Chemistry Processes have included Cibachrome, RA, & Standard EP-2 for color prints. For developing B&W negatives I use Kodak D-76 & Dektol for hypered Film and Dektol for prints. For all color negative developing I use Standard C-41 Chemistry. ( 3 step process.)

Note: All my photos, that are for sale, are shot on the worlds finest grain 25, 50 & 100 speed 35mm, 6x4.5cm, & 6x6cm films. This ensures tack sharp enlargements in all formats.

Some would have you believe that 35mm film cannot be blown up to 20"x24" , Not True! It can be done and is very tack sharp when you use slow(25, 50, & 100 ISO) speed fine grain films!!!!!

I have even enlarged 35mm film to 15 feet by 10 feet wall muruals from Fine grain 3, 16, & 25 speed ISO. BillBoard Size. Orion Nebula, Pleiades, etc... a recent photo example of such a fine grain shot can be seen in the March 1996 issue of DISCOVER MAGAZINE, pg.37, it is a tack sharp shot I took of Capella.

Some would have you believe that if you shoot medium format rather than 35mm, you get a bigger image, not requiring much enlargement, thus giving you a better image. This is Absolutely False!!!

Now Really think about this one!!!
Through a telescope at prime focus, the object image scale at a fixed focal length will be the same on both 35mm and medium format . The only difference is that there is more sky area shown on the medium format film(2" to 4" dia. circle). The image scales are the same and still require the same amount of enlargement, despite the format used.

There are some advantages to medium format over 35mm; if you want to cover more sky area or an object that is larger than what will fit on a 35mm negative then use medium format. But most of the good objects will fit on a 35mm negative with room to spare for focal lengths up to 80 inches.

Medium format is a very high quality professional film format and provides very crisp images, and to the trained eye has an edge over most 35mm films, that is why I use it.

A very fine grain(100 ISO) professional color 35mm negative, if properly focused, exposed( long exposures), guided, and printed will blow away 400 medium format film. I also use this kind of 35mm film, because there are so many more choices of film!

More On Images
Don't worry about reciprocity failure, hypersensitizing the film takes care of that(Use for fainter objects). But I've been obtaining great results without hypering! This is especially true for the brighter objects.

But you must find the right films with very low reciprocity failure. And this constantly changes due to the fact most good films are not around for long. So you should be constantly experimenting with new films!!

For sharp enlargements up to 8x10 and quick exposures use 400 & 800 speed ISO films. For tack sharp enlargements to 16x20 or 20x24 use long exposures & fine grain 100 speed ISO or less.

For all who love or wished to try astrophotography
Important Notes -- Never let others discourage or belittle your efforts, if the image is pleasing to you, then thats whats its all about! Most importantly, use the equipment, film, or format that works best for you and your budget!!!!

My prices reflect the tremendous hours of hard work, (3,500+ negative archive) and fine quality I put into each astro image print!

Out of over 5,000+ photos/slides I have reproduced & sold around the world, I have never had one returned or a complaint due to quality! If its not perfect, I won't sell it.

And I offer a 30 day money back guarantee, if you are not satisfied simply return it undamaged for a full refund.

Not Sure about purchasing on the Web?
I know it can be difficult at times to judge quality or safety over the internet, So I invite you to visit me at a Fine Art Exhibit in your area, simply check my schedule for cities near you. You will be amazed at how beautiful both the images and my Gallery Display really are at these Fine Art Exhibits.

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